Pavers Knowledge Quiz

Typically 8-20 per square foot installed depending on paver type, base work, and site prep. A 300-square-foot patio lands around 2,500-6,000, while driveways run higher because they need a deeper base.

Pavers need 4-6 inches of compacted base, edge restraints, polymeric sand, and hand placement of every unit. Concrete is cheaper up front, but pavers are repairable, crack-resistant, and individual panels can be swapped when damaged.

Paver material (concrete, brick, or natural stone), the base depth required for traffic, site prep and excavation, and pattern complexity. Permeable pavers and large-format stone cost noticeably more.

Around 10-20 per square foot installed, so a two-car driveway of roughly 500-600 square feet runs 5,000-12,000. Demolishing old concrete or asphalt and drainage work add thousands on top.

Very low: occasional polymeric sand top-ups, edging repairs, and cleaning. Sealing every 2-4 years at about 0.50-1.50 per square foot protects the color and joints, but it is optional.

When you want individual crack-free panels, easy repairs, or a premium look, and when the ground moves, since pavers flex with it while slabs crack. Concrete wins on the lowest first cost and the fastest install.

Thick concrete pavers (2 3/8 inches or thicker) or heavy-duty brick rated for vehicular traffic. Thin patio pavers and most natural stone are not built for the weight of cars.

If drainage is a problem or your city requires stormwater management, yes: permeable pavers let water soak through and can avoid runoff fees. They cost more and need a special open-graded aggregate base.

Concrete is cheapest and most consistent, brick has timeless color that will not fade but fewer shapes, and natural stone is the premium, expensive option with irregular joints. Match the choice to your style, budget, and traffic.

About 60 mm (2 3/8 inches) for patios and walkways and 80 mm (3 1/8 inches) for driveways and heavy traffic. Thinner pavers over a weak base will crack or shift under vehicles.

Experience with proper base compaction and edge restraints, a license where required, insurance, and references with photos of the base work, which is the hidden half of the job and where corners get cut.

Ask how deep they will excavate, what base material they use and how many compaction passes, what edge restraint they install, whether they apply polymeric sand and sealer, and how they handle drainage.

A dedicated hardscape or paver specialist usually owns the right equipment (plate compactor, wet saw) and has base-prep experience; general landscapers vary widely. Verify whoever you choose has done similar paver projects.

Four to six inches of compacted aggregate under the pavers prevents settling, shifting, and lippage. A contractor who skimps on base depth or compaction is building a repair job that will show up within a year or two.

Three, and compare base depth, edge restraints, sand type, and grading in writing. Identical-looking bids can differ by thousands of dollars in what is hidden under the surface.

Utility line locations (call 811), the drainage direction so water slopes away from structures, property lines, and local rules on permeable versus impermeable surfaces. Also confirm how the area handles heavy rain.

Paver brand and thickness, excavation depth, base material and compaction, edge restraint type, joint sand, sealing or not, the drainage plan, cleanup, and a workmanship warranty of at least 1-2 years.

Concrete paver manufacturers typically offer 25-year or lifetime product warranties against chipping and fading, but the base work is only covered by the installer's workmanship warranty. Ask who backs what.

Ask to see an in-progress job, confirm they use a plate compactor (not a hand tamper) on both the base and the pavers, and check that the base is compacted in lifts rather than dumped and flattened.

The finished surface should slope at least 1/4 inch per foot away from the house, low spots need drains or a dry well, and the base should not trap water. Standing water after a rain is a sign of bad grading.

Skimping on the base: less than 4 inches, uncompacted fill, or pavers laid directly on dirt. It looks fine for months, then settles, shifts, and weeds in, and it is completely invisible until it fails.

Demolition and haul-away of old concrete, tree-root removal, drainage work, edging upgrades, extra base for driveways, and sealing. Ask for a line-item quote so these do not become surprise change orders.

Low bids often use thin pavers, skip edge restraints, blow sand over an uncompacted base, or leave out the excavation that other quotes include. The surface looks identical on day one and separates within a year or two.

Some installers apply a cheap water-based sealer that peels or darkens unevenly, or seal before the joint sand has fully set. Ask exactly what sealer they use and how long they cure it, and get it in writing.